By Judy & Les Conklin
For additional photos, see “Related Articles” below.
According to Wikipedia, India, located in South Asia, is the seventh-largest country by area, the second-most populous country with over 1.2 billion people, and the most populous democracy in the world. Bounded by the Indian Ocean on the south, the Arabian Sea on the south-west, and the Bay of Bengal on the south-east, it shares land borders with Pakistan to the west; China, Nepal, and Bhutan to the north-east; and Burma and Bangladesh to the east.
My wife, Judy, and I visited “the heart of India” for three weeks during October and November, 2014. Our trip took us from Delhi, Jaipur, Pushkar, Ranthanbore National Park, Khajuraho, and Varanasi, and back to Delhi. It was an amazing trip, filled with incredible sights, sounds, smells, and surprises. This is the first of a series of articles that will be posted during December that will present photographs that we took during the trip. A surprising trip that delivered so much more than we expected.
Click on the box below each photo for more information.
Delhi, Qutab Mintar, Indian Tourists Enjoy Unique Site
Surprise #1. Indian tourists took photos of us. Click Here to Learn More.
Some Indian people from remote villages have never seen a white-skinned “westerner.” At Qutab Minar, an archeological site dating to 1193 A.D., Judy was surrounded by friendly Indians asking to take her photograph. Several times during the trip I sensed someone close to me, turned, and found myself being included in an Indian’s “selfie.” While the 14 members of our group were taking pictures of the residents of India, they were taking pictures of us. Little surprises that added to our and their enjoyment.
Calf Rests in Market. Pushkar.
Surprise #2. Cows are everywhere. Learn More.
I was surprised to see cows sleeping in the medians of traffic-filled and very noisy roads, some with their hindquarters partially blocking a lane of traffic. Not to worry, cows rank higher than humans and vehicles when it comes to right-of-way, etc. Cows are considered sacred in world religions such as Hinduism, and Jainism. Due to the multiple benefits, some Indian states prohibit the slaughter of cattle and their meat may be taboo. Beef was not available in any of the restaurants and hotels that we visited during our stay.
Mahatma Gandhi’s Cremation Site, Delhi.
Surprise #3. Gandhi's cremation site in Delhi is near other cremation sites. Learn More.
Mahatma Gandhi’s message of non-violence and economic self-reliance provided an ideology that united castes and communities in a common cause, resulting in Great Britain granting independence in 1947. Raj Ghat is the site of his samadhi (cremation) memorial. Within the same park are three other samadhi memorials to Jawaharlal Nehru, Indira Gandhi (not related to Mahatma), and Rajiv Gandhi (Indira’s son).
Sharing a Meal, Sikh Temple, Delhi.
Surprise #4. Volunteers are welcome. Learn More.
We had some free time and our guide asked if anyone in our group wanted to visit a nearby Sikh temple, most said yes. When we arrived, we were asked if we wanted to volunteer to help serve a meal. We gulped and agreed. Every Sikh temple provides a free meal, once a day, to all comers, rich, poor, Sikh or otherwise. The meal is cooked and served by volunteers, mostly members of that temple, and paid for by donations. There was a wonderful feeling of fellowship in that room.
Sundial at Jantar Mantar, Jaipur.
Surprise #5. There's another sundial. Learn More.
Carefree, you’re not alone, Jantar Mantar in Jaipur is one of five similar astronomical and astrological observatory in India. Jantar Mantar, built from 1728 to 1734, is the best preserved. The observatory consists of fourteen major geometric devices for measuring time, predicting eclipses, tracking stars’ location as the earth orbits around the sun, ascertaining the declinations of planets, and determining the celestial altitudes.The Samrat Yantra, pictured here, is the largest instruments. It’s 90 feet high. Its shadow is carefully plotted to tell the time of day.
Snake Charmer, Outside Amber Fort, Jaipur.
Surprise #6. Snake charming is illegal. Learn More.
This snake charmer was sitting outside the main gate of the Amber Fort in Jaipur. The snakes used by snake charmers have had their fangs and venomous glands removed and they also don’t do well being kept in a small basket (see photo) most of the day. Because of this cruelty, the practice has been banned. We also learned that when the snakes move their bodies as the flute plays they are not being “charmed” by the music but rather reacting defensively to the movement of the flute and the charmer’s hand. Since they need to earn a living, the law permits older charmers to continue the trade.
Elephants Entering Amber Fort, Jaipur.
Surprise 7. Elephants are being phased out. Learn More.
Just like a former ruler, a tourist can ride an elephant through the gates of the Amber Fort in Jaipur. The current group of elephants that provide the rides will be the last to do so. The practice is being stopped because of the negative impact of walking on hot pavement has on the elephants. Watching from the wall above the entrance, it was easy to imagine past rulers being carried into the fort.
Home Hosted Dinner, Singh Family, Jaipur.
Surprise #8. A Simple Marriage Plan. Learn More.
Judy and I and another couple were guests for dinner at the Singh family’s home in Jaipur. Most marriages in India are arranged by the family of the bride and groom. When he was 30 and single, Mr. Singh’s parents arranged the marriage of his brother. The bride-to-be had a sister, so the parents also arranged a marriage between Mr. Singh and the sister. In many cases, the bride and groom do not meet one another until their wedding day. A very different system than ours but it works in India, partially because both families are invested and involved in making it work.
Camel at Pushkar Festival. Pushkar.
Surprise #9. Camels, Horses, and Pilgrims Too. Learn More.
Pushkar is a quiet town sacred to Hindus. The town surrounds Pushkar Lake, which is used by religious pilgrims who come to bathe its healing waters. However, the annual Pushkar fair turns the fair grounds and the town into a teeming place of temporary camps, camel races, horse and camel trading, and traditional festivities, involving dance, music, and sports-related activities. The camel pictured here is one of the hundreds and hundreds that we saw at the fair.
Female Tiger, Rathanambore National Park.
Surprise #10. We actually saw some. Learn More.
Rathanambore National Park covers 100 square miles and is home to 70 tigers. The park is part of Project Tiger, India’s national tiger conservation program. Tiger poaching is a serious problem in some parts of India. The tigers are carefully monitored and controlled. When the count of tigers in the park exceeds 70, the “excess” tigers are moved to other tiger reserves in India. We were very fortunate. On a game drive in the park our guide tracked and our group spotted this female and her two cubs. It had been two weeks since the previous sighting in the park. Our park guide was just as excited as we were.
Women working in the fields adjacent to the road to Bharatpur greet us.
Surprise #11. Even when picking peanuts women dress brightly. Learn More.
In the parts of India that we visited many women wore colorful and traditional saris. Dress varies by region and ethnicity. In Delhi, we saw a few women wearing western clothes.
Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary, Rajasthan, Early Morning.
Surprise #12. If you're into birds ... Learn More.
When we arrived in Bharatpur for the night, our tour guide told us that there was a bird sanctuary nearby and that if we were interested there was time for an early morning visit. Most of our group got up at 4:30 a.m. and went. It was a beautiful and quiet place. In addition to serving as a home for many species of native birds, this reserve provides refuge for migratory birds from Siberia and Central Asia, including cranes, pelicans, eagles, and hawks.
Taj Mahal, Agra.
Surprise #13. Greatly Exceeded Expectations. Learn More.
The Taj Mahal was much bigger and even more beautiful than we expected. It was built by Shah Jahan as a mausoleum for his favorite wife, Queen Mumtaz (Taj) Mahal. It took 20,000 workers 20 years, from 1631 to 1651, to create. The building has four identical facades, a perfect exercise in symmetry, with the Queen’s mausoleum in the exact center of the building. The perfect symmetry of the structure was broken when Shah Jahan’s mausoleum was later placed next to the Queen’s.
Persian Well, on the Way to Khajuraho.
Surprise #14. No batteries or electricity required. Lean More.
While on the road to Khajuraho, our bus stopped. Just off the side of the road, a farmer was using oxen to power a Persian well to water his fields. Persian wells have been used for thousands of years and require no electricity; it’s a good thing because there wasn’t any electricity in that rural area. Water from the buckets on the wheel is delivered into an irrigation ditch, which then leads to other ditches.
Temple Rock Carvings, Chandelas
Suprise #15. The temples were as beautiful as the carvings. Learn More.
The magnificent temples at Chandelas (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) was built between the ninth and tenth centuries. The erotic stone carvings at Chandelas have come to symbolize the important role of love and prana energy in Hindu thought. When British archaeologists excavated the carvings during colonial times, a few of the carvings scandalized post-Victorian English sensibilities. The temple complex is reminiscent of Angkor Wat in appearance.
Traffic in Varanasi.
Surprise #16. Traffic signs and lights are for suggestions only. Learn More.
The holiest of Hindu cities, Varansi, is also one of the oldest cities in the world, with a written history dating back more than 4,000 years. It has an intense, almost palpable atmosphere of spiritual devotion, a feeling of an unending religious festival. Varanasi, like the other cities we visited, has loud, chaotic (to us) traffic. The roads are filled with all manner of vehicles, pedestrians, and, of course, cows and dogs. Horns are used as frequently as steering wheels. Yet, in the midst of all the noise and seeming chaos, we never saw anybody get angry. It demonstrates that many living things are adaptable.
Boats on Ganges River at Sunset. Varanasi.
Surprise #17. Mother Ganga provides surprises 24/7. Learn More.
Mother Ganga, the Ganges River is the most sacred river of the Hindu religion. From boats like these, we watched a people flock to bathe and worship in the temples beside the riverbank. We watched people take a ritual dip, perform yoga asanas, wash clothes, and offer flowers and incense to the river. After sunset, we watched from a distance as cremation fires lit the shoreline. The fires do their work 24/7 as families make extra-efforts to have their loved ones cremated along Mother Ganga.
RELATED ARTICLES
Heart of India Photo Journal One: 17 Surprises
Heart of India Photo Journal Two: 12 Sadhus, Etc.
Heart of India Photo Journal Three: 18 Images of People, Places, and Monkies Too
December 8, 2014
Great Heart of India pics Les & Judy. Im glad you enjoyed the trip and are now sharing your wonderful pictures.
December 8, 2014
Kapil, Thank you for being such a terrific guide, host, and travelling companion. I know everybody in our group of 14 appreciated the wonderful trip that you and Overseas Adventure Travel put together. Les